Haida Gwaii!!

Saturday, May 31st, 2014 - Off the coast of Chichagof Island, Alaska

We are in the middle of our third northern expedition.  The first trip lasted two weeks, bringing us from Seattle to Southeast Alaska.  Along the way, we made a few stops in British Columbia, one of which was in Haida Gwaii (formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands).

Haida Gwaii is an archipelago that has been populated by the Haida Nation for more than 12,500 years. Some of the islands are protected by the federal government, which has deemed it the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.  It is a sincere privilege to be invited upon this land.

We were able to visit Anthony Island, one of the southernmost islands of the archipelago.  Upon this island is the site of SGang Gwaay Llnaagay, which was once a major village for the Kunghit Haida.  A replica of one of tribe's four-post houses greets you at the beginning of the trail.

 Continuing up the trail, you arrive at one of the house pits, upon which sat one of those four-post houses.

The Haida would move around depending on the season, requiring them to have a system of relocating.  The houses were assembled with pieces that were easily deconstructed and transported (via canoe) to the next settlement.

The chief of this particular village had a six-post house, where many celebrations and meetings took place.  The pit for this house was left with the main posts relatively in place.

During our trek, we arrived at a little inlet created by a large rock formation known as "fortress rock."

It received this name due to the fact that, if attacked, the women and children would climb up ladders placed against the rock.  The vertical rock face made it difficult for attacking tribes to reach the top; the rocks being thrown by the protected women and children did not make it any easier either.

On the beach of this little inlet, you encounter mortuary poles.

These were the graves of high status people.  The pole was carved with the crest of the deceased person, which usually told the story of the person, their family and their status within the tribe.  The remains of the deceased, placed in a bentwood box, were housed in the hollow top of the pole.

The poles that we encountered were in various conditions.  Some had decayed, while others had been burned by attacking clans.

I may have an additional Haida post coming soon, just to fill in any information that I can about these people and their fascinating culture.  For now, I will continue doing my research.

End of Baja!

Friday, May 2nd, 2014 - Seattle, Washington

We made it back!! After two weeks of variable seas, dehydration and seasickness, we have finally returned to the Pacific Northwest!!  I love being home.  The view from the approach was rather majestic...

...and before we head to Haida Gwaii and Alaska, I wanted to share the end of the short Baja season that I was lucky enough to have been a part of!

We visited Isla Rasa, which houses 95% of the world's Elegant Tern and Heermann's Gull population...

...unfortunately, the birds were late this year, leaving us with a nearly abandoned nesting ground.

An interesting fact about this island is that it once served as a guano harvesting ground, especially during the AMERICAN Civil War.

Guano, for those that are not familiar with it, is bird excrement, which serves as a highly effective fertilizer and basis for gunpowder (hence its use in the war).   Across the majority of the island, there are numerous rock mounds that were created to open up the space to harvest the guano from the ground.

Continuing on, we sailed to Isla Santa Catalina, which is home to the rattle-less rattlesnake.  Having heard this, I ventured out to try and find one but was unsuccessful.  Instead, I played peek-a-boo with various lizards...

...and watched the birds.

I had to get a photo of the cacti flowers as well.

To finish the Baja season, we anchored at Bahía Bonanza, at which time I decided to make for "the nipple" upon the ridge.

While traversing the loose boulders on the way, I managed to snag some photos of wildlife...

...and while I did not accomplish the original goal (reaching "the nipple"), I was able to take in an amazing view of the Sea Lion, desert landscape and beautiful, blue waters.

What a way to end my time in this stunning region of the world!

We head north with more guests this weekend, so my next blog post might not occur for a week or so.